JOSTEDALSBREEN NASJONALPARK encircles the largest glacier on the European mainland. The glacier covers over a half of the park, which has the area of 1310km². The ice at the thickest point reaches 600m. Unfortunately, it melts really fast, so better hurry if you want to see it!
I’ve studied the guidebook. It said that near the city of Fjærland there are two very easily accessible glaciers – Supphellebreen and his brother behind the hill – Bøyabreen. We can even touch the tongue of the Supphellebreen glacier and the ice from it was used to build a podium in Lillehammer in 1994.
We followed road signs to SUPPHELLEBREEN. Few curves more and we could see the parking space. We gathered our things and went to meet the glacier. Just a few steps and we found ourselves on the glade by the river. Ok, we could see it but this was not what we expected! Well, our mistake. The guidebook we used was from 2011 and as we noticed, not only prices have changed from that time. It was not possible to come closer to the ice and touch it. Only a small piece of glacier left, hanging from the top of the mountain. And a big pile of the snow below.
Not quite satisfied we drove few kilometers further to the parking at BØYABREEN. There was a bit longer path to walk and I started to regret we didn’t take the stroller from the car. The glacier is more attractive than the first one. Still, it doesn’t descend into the valley but clings to the rock at a certain height. It did though, some years ago, as the color of the rock differs. The glacier lies in a beautiful scenery of green mountains and its massive ice body reflects in the water. The longer I looked, the more impressed I became by the power of nature. However, Tomek was unmoved. He started to say loud he had enough of walking and watching some water and ice so we started to retreat. Suddenly we heard a huge noise behind our back magnified by surrounding mountains. The part of the ice had just broken and rolled down the rock. Well, the glaciers are melting right in front of our eyes.
We wanted to enjoy the view for a little bit longer so we stopped by at the cafe at the foot of the glacier. The prices were reasonable. We rested from a drive. I think Tomek was the one who needed it most. And only Kaprys had to wait in the car.
We determined the fastest route to the fjords. It went by land and water. Ferries are common means of transport there. They run often and it is possible to pay by the entrance. Usually, it cost us around 130 Nkr for two adults, a child, and a car. The dog traveled for free.
Hungry, we turned to the parking just outside Anda-Lote ferry crossing. We noticed a small sign about payment but found no one to ask for details. Maybe it was only for hut’s renters? In the worst scenario, we would be told to drive off. Anyway, we had dinner in wonderful surroundings of Nordfjord.
The last task for the day was to find a place for a night. The side roads were quite well visible in the brightness of the night, and soon we found one. It led a bit behind a mound so we were hidden from the street. And there was an icy cold water from the stream. Perfect!